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Story · Kadıköy and Moda

Kadıköy and Moda: the Asian side's everyday city

Kadıköy · Moda, Kadıköy
1 min readHistory & LayersFact

Photo: Emre Gencer on Unsplash · placeholder, not this place

Reddit asks about Kadıköy more than any other part of Istanbul: 56 of our 947 posts. One traveller put it plainly: will I miss out if I don't stay there?

That thread drew 36 comments; the subreddit's own wiki, the poster said, had suggested staying there.

Start with the crossing, because that's how the rest of the city gets here: ferries from Eminönü, Karaköy and Beşiktaş, 20 to 35 minutes from Eminönü.

Then the age. Greeks from Megara founded Chalcedon here about 685 BC. In 451 the fourth ecumenical council met here. In 1353 the Ottomans took it, a full century before Constantinople fell across the water.

The Turkish name, "village of the judge", comes from its placement under the capital's courts after the conquest.

Boats turned a rural settlement into a commuter suburb; in 1928 it split from Üsküdar as its own district. Wikipedia now calls it the liberal cultural centre of the Anatolian side: bars, cinemas, bookshops, a large market, Bağdat Avenue for shopping.

Now Moda. "Kadıköy and Moda" sounds like one place, but Moda is its own quarter on its own peninsula, and a late arrival: only after the 1870s did wealthy non-Muslims build mansions there. It has Armenian, Greek and Anglican churches, the Süreyya Opera House (1927), a 1917 pier restored in 2022, and the Whittall mansion of 1900, later the musician Barış Manço's home, now a house museum.

And Reddit? Kadıköy, 56 posts. Moda, 5.

Quick factsTombili, the cat of Ziverbey, got a statue from Kadıköy Municipality on 4 October 2016.The M4 metro runs from the waterfront to Sabiha Gökçen Airport; Marmaray meets it at Ayrılık Çeşmesi.Şehir Hatları's winter timetable runs 7 September 2026 to 27 June 2027.
The Moment

Cross by ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy and count the ride as part of the day. Walk the market streets, then out to Moda and its shore; a nostalgic tram runs there, if it's running. Boat times change, so check Şehir Hatları on the day.

Where: Kadıköy · Moda, Kadıköy
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